I sincerely love The Row in downtown Los Angeles, but Sundays are my favorite. Most people think I’m positively nuts when they see my initial excitement driving through DTLA and seeing the skyline begin to appear. My eyes widen and sparkle as I see the city pass and breathe a deep sigh of gratitude that I get to live here. Yes, “I love my city.”
Out of all the places I’ve been in my life, Los Angeles holds the key to my heart. Yes, it’s filled with problems, is insanely expensive, and there are parts of it I do not dare to visit. But overall, it truly is a melting pot of culture, unique experiences, and ideas, no matter how weird they are, are welcomed - and likely there is a community of people waiting to welcome another weirdo with open arms. At least, this has been my experience since moving here in 2018.
You see, I grew up in a small town in Northern California where, as progressive as some would like to believe it to be, there was (and still is) a sense of stagnation there. I feel it every time I visit and feel more out of place every time I go than I did when I was a kid. It just never felt like “home.” I felt different growing up, always chasing experiences, dreaming of travel, and meeting new people. I never wanted to simply settle, but LIVE. Not to mention the realization that I was queer didn’t help matters. But, the story of growing up queer is one for another day.
The reason I bring this all up is because I want to put into proper perspective why places like The Row mean so much to me.
If you have never been to The Row, it’s a little intimidating at first. You drive through Alameda Street, through graffiti-lined warehouses, factories, and skyscrapers. The roads are always busy, and there is nearly always the scent of tacos or spices in the air from a local street cart. You come to a space filled with old, industrial-looking buildings that resemble a modern-day fortress.
Sundays are busiest, especially on the first nice days of the year. This is when my soul begins to stir and I can’t contain the smile on my face. Growing up with little, to no diversity in thought, food, or people, places like this offer a rainbow of experiences that I had only dreamt of as a child. My partner, having lived in four countries and traveled among 20 in his life, merely smiles in joy at my child-like excitement and awe. The first and only person I had ever known in my life to truly understand why my heart swells in spaces like this.
As I walk through the buildings, adorned with line work graffiti, I enter the raw and beautiful industrial space. My nose is hit first with a mixture of spices, and sweetness. I pick up on the sounds of laughter and a mixture of languages and accents as I see the doors to the center, the heart of this artistically industrial compound.
Step into a Sunday afternoon at The Row with me…
from the moment I step into the bustling streets beyond the initial industrial skyscrapers, my heart rate quickens as I see the gates to the center square open. Amidst this vibrant district lies Smorgasburg, a haven where every visit promises to be a culinary and artisanal dream become reality.
As I venture into The Row, a symphony of sights, sounds, and scents envelops me. The open-air bar is lit with a vibrant truck, neon, and a live DJ mixing beats for the entire space to enjoy. The air hums with the irresistible aroma of street food sizzling on grills, while the lively chatter of diverse languages creates a harmonious cacophony. It's a melting pot of cultures, where people from all walks of life converge to celebrate their love for good food and community.
One of the most captivating aspects of Smorgasburg is its celebration of cultural diversity. With each stall offering a glimpse into a different culinary tradition, I embark on a global gastronomic journey without ever leaving Los Angeles. From tantalizing Korean BBQ tacos to full lobsters on garlic noodles, the options are as diverse as the city itself. Each bite is a testament to the rich tapestry of flavors that define our collective human experience.
But this place offers more than just a feast for the palate—it's a feast for the soul. As I meander through the maze of tents and food trucks, I encounter artisans pouring their hearts into their craft with passion and pride. From meticulously handcrafted jewelry to intricately woven textiles, each item tells a story of heritage and skill. It's a beautiful collision of tradition and innovation, where the old meets the new in the most captivating ways.
What sets Smorgasburg apart is its unwavering support for local businesses and artisans. Many of the vendors are small-scale producers, entrepreneurs, and creatives who have turned their passion into a livelihood. There are even painters standing at their booths, dipping their brushes into jars and creating right in the center of the action. By patronizing their stalls, I'm not just indulging in delicious food and unique goods—I'm also investing in the dreams and aspirations of my fellow Angelenos.
As I sample my way through the array of flavors at Smorgasburg, I'm struck by the sense of camaraderie and community that permeates the air. Strangers become friends over shared plates of food, and conversations flow effortlessly across cultural and linguistic barriers. It's a testament to the unifying power of food and the human connection it fosters.
Yet, the true magic of The Row lies in its ability to transport me to a world of endless possibility and wonder. From unique sake shops to artisans of all sorts, to a Michelin-star restaurant or two, it’s a combination of art, food, and culture that you can find day or night.
There is also the element of industrial here, that I feel captivates a sense of rawness. There is an uninhibited nature to it that I don’t find with any other style. It’s not presumptuous or out to impress…it stands nude, raw, and proud. I admire that as an artist and a woman. There is space for anything to happen, welcoming possibilities, and yet happy to be simply as it is.
The Row is a place I don’t get to often enough, but one that I hope to visit many more times. If nothing else, I hope this diary entry is a reminder to stop and appreciate the diversity and raw sexiness around you. I promise you’ll see if you only look.